Tonight we’ll have a look at a wine that is so unconventional it has to bear a fantasy name. We’re going to Vipava Valley, where Primož Lavrenčič and his family are crafting their unique story under the brand Burja estate. The wine we’ll have a look at is Reddo, a blend of Blaufränkisch, Refosco and Schioppettino.
Primož Lavrenčič has been practising biodynamic farming ever since the constitution of the Estate. However, Reddo doesn’t bare the Demeter certification, as this was the last vintage to be harvested before its induction. Primož is an avid believer in traditional grape varieties and has been one of the driving forces behind Vipavec wine’s revival.
He helped me with historical information of antique wine production methods in the Vipava valley and one of a kind guy you must visit next time you stop in upper Vipava valley. This wine results from his beliefs, as Blaufränkisch and Refosco and Schioppettino, are uncommon in the valley. However, Matija Vertovec mentions them in his famed book about vine and winemaking titled Vinoreja (written in 1844).
Grapes for this wine are coming from two vineyards, spreading above the village of Podraga. Ravno Brdo is planted at an altitude of 160 and Stranice at 220 meters above sea level. Both are facing northeast and count for 12 years of age.
Bunches are handpicked, Blaufränkisch and Refosco at the same time and Schioppettino 10 days afterwards. The vinification follows the same steps. After destemming, grapes are crushed and left to macerate for three weeks in stainless tanks without temperature control. After gentle pressing, the young wine is left for its sediments to settle and is then moved into large oak barrels of 1.000 and 1.500 litres for 18 months. It is then bottled without filtration, and in ideal conditions, it stays in the cellar for six months before entering the market. I said ideal, as the demand for Reddo is high!
Reddo has a deep, ruby red colour with a purple tip and dense texture.
The bouquet is intense, sumptuous. It reveals ripe cherries, plum, blackberry, laurel, liquorice, tobacco, chocolate, sandalwood, cinnamon and gentle tones of vanilla.
The palate is dry, soft, but also vibrantly fresh. The tannins are gently evolving, and in the finish, we detect a mineral saltiness. The taste of Reddo is intense, full-bodied and enchanting with a persistently elegant taste.
Burja’s Reddo is a dignifying homage to the ancestors and how wines used to be vinified in Vipava valley. A bottle costs approximately 23 Euros, and you can usually get it at eVino or Faladur, if available. As mentioned, the demand for this wine really is high!