Finally, I’ve made it to JNK‘s vineyards to see where their wine is happening, so today, I decided to present their macerated Malvazija laid to mature in oak barrels.
Grapes are coming from vineyards aged between 15 and 25 years, with south exposures. In a due manner at JNK, vines are looked after organic farming, and this is something you see when in the vineyard.
Bunches are hand-harvested, destemmed and crushed. Pomace then macerates for three days in open wood vats at uncontrolled temperatures with vigorous cape management. The must is then gently pressed and racked into used oak barrels, where it matures on fine lees for up to fifteen months. Lees are frequently steered, and malolactic conversion is conducted. The wine is then bottled without filtration.
Finally, we are in the vineyard, getting poured a glass of cloudy Malvazija. It has a dense, oily texture and golden yellow colour.
Aromas are intense, reminiscent of kiwi confitture, overripe apricot and persimon. We also detect hints of candied citrus zest, dried yellow rose petals, forest honey, grape berry skin, oregano, rosemary, anise, vanilla, hay and ultimately, it brings a reminder of grandmas lemon tart.
A wine of oily texture with well-integrated alcohol and pronounced freshness. The latter introducing mineral saltiness and a touch of astringency, acting balsamic in the aftertaste. A wine of structure that lovers of macerated, archaic wines will find appealing.
There is a touch of charisma when looking at Kristina’s wines, and honestly, they perform best when sitting in the vineyard, under oak trees and sipping a glass in good company.
You can also read Simon J. Woolf’s impressions of it at his The Morning Claret.