Time to head back to Matej Korenika, to have a look at his blend of Malvasia, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris named with the dialect word “Sulne” – which means salt pans, and is referring to the salt pans which you can see from the vineyards.
Korenika & Moškon wines are included in the biodynamic production, and all of their produce follows this philosophy. Grapes are coming from two vineyards – Paderno, which counts for 17 years and is mainly used for Malvasia, and gives half of the part in this wine. The other vineyard, Kortinca, with vines of 21 years, contributing equal amounts of Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. Both are facing south with some steep and warm exposures where it may feel like in a furnace. Just imagine walking in a quarry of sunburnt marl.
Grapes were hand-harvested when overripe and carefully selected in the vineyard. After destemming and crushing, the grape mesh macerated for 45 days in open vats, with spontaneous fermentation.
Following a gentle pressing, the young wine was initially racked into oak barrels with fine lees for twelve months. It was then unified in a large, 2.000-litre oak vessel where it matured for the next five years before finally being bottled without filtration.
Sulne displays a crystal amber colour, with a thick texture, quickly stopping in the glass with extractive tears slowly slipping on the glass walls.
Accentuated and sumptuous aromas evoke at first candied fruit, followed by hints reminding of cognac. We detect an interplay of candied orange peel, caramel, dried tobacco leaves, cedar, white pepper, dried yellow flowers, honey notes and dried thyme.
The mouthfeel is oily, soft and warm. Its freshness surprises and leaves a pleasant mineral saltiness that is nicely incorporated into a wholly balanced wine. The taste is intense and lasting with an alluringly accentuated elegance.
A wine that surprises with its complexity and youthful character that will help him keep in shape for a long time. A bottle will cost you 25 Eur, and you can get it at their online store, Vinoo.co, or a box at TuamV.