Wine

Tilia estate – Pinot noir, White label, 2017

Tilia estate – Pinot noir, White label, 2017
Photo: Mihaela Majerhold – Ostrovršnik

There is something about Vipava valley. And there is a sentimental tie to a grape variety, so delicate, so precious and at the same time able to offer immense pleasures to the drinkers. We’re at Tilia estate, and this time we’ll have a look at the peak of his quality pyramid. I’m referring to the Pinot noir we find under the White label.

Now those who know Matjaž Lemut would say he’s in love with this variety. So much this drove him to create an event dedicated entirely to this noble variety “Modri – Les noirs“. He’s been able to attract an amazing selection of Pinot noirs from the whole world, and some of the leading critics and experts, such as my dear friend Richard Pfister, hosting some not to miss workshops.

But let’s touch this wine. As mentioned, White label represents the peak of Tilia estate’s Pinot noir range. We’re speaking of a single-vineyard wine, produced from the sole 666 clone expression. The vineyard is below mount Čaven, so it benefits from its cool climate and is well aerated, but it can also get pretty warm. And such was August 2017, with temperatures, in some parts of the Valley, reaching up to 40 ° Celsius. The soil is mostly composed of marl, with white rocks sparsed around the vineyard.

Well-matured grapes were hand-picked. Matjaž uses the Saignee method here, to take away juices and concentrate flavours and extraction. The remaining mash then underwent a 10-day maceration in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures, following by a 16-month maturation in new Louis Latour barriques, conducting controlled malolactic fermentation, with 4 months of active batonnage of fine lees.

This results in a Pinot noir with transparent, but still extractive ruby red colour.

The aroma is intense, evoking overripe plum, marasca cherry, cranberry, hibiscus petals, pencil tip, hummus, forest undergrowth, and roasted nuts eucalyptus and dried Mediterranean herbs.

The palate feels soft, but it immediately refreshes us, following with accentuated, slightly spicy tannins slowly starting to round off. Overall this is an example of a youngster that will only evolve and improve over time.

It boasts intense elegance, virtue and a lasting, distinctive persistency that fully encompasses the focus and what pushing pinot noir to the next level can be.

A Pinot noir that can find its place close to most of the well-known exemplars out there that will surprise guests with its elegant deepness, crispiness and most of all huge ageing potential.

You can get it for a price approximating 45 Eur. Vinoo.coo ships it internationally, you can also find it at Koželj. It has the potential to age, and I’m really interested in seeing how it will develop in the next 7 years.

If interested look at my description of Tilia Estate’s Pinot noir Estate.

Photo: Mihaela Majerhold – Ostrovršnik
Valentin

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