Deni Mandić preparing beef tartare
And they prepare it à table (tableside)! A must-see feast for the eye, a must-try, and certainly one of the best beef tartares we’ve tried in years.
The Saints Hills Cantina is located at the top of the Sv. Ante hill – the highest hill in the region and the unanimously named vineyard, where grapes for Mala Nevina, Frenchie and Le Chifre grow. For about 15 years, bunches were harvested and transferred to the Dalmatian winery in Pelješac. This all changed in 2024, as the Tolj family inaugurated the Cantina—a winery dedicated entirely to white wines, a restaurant, and an accommodation house featuring three 5-star apartments.
We could easily say that the vineyard of sv. Ante is a clos. Approximately 70,000 vines are planted, with the majority being Chardonnay, followed by Sauvignon Blanc, and then Semillon. In addition, a new vineyard with 20.000 vines dedicated to Malvasia Istriana. Their Chardonnay – Le Chifre, is produced sur lie in François Frères’ barriques and is considered one of the best in Croatia. It landed a stunning 35th position in Wine Enthusiast’s top 100 wines of 2023. In contrast, the rest of the wines are dedicated primarily to blends, as Nevina and Mala Nevina are produced as a cuvée of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Malvasia Istriana. Frenchie, on the other hand, is an homage to their consultant Michel Rolland, and is a Bordeaux Blend of Sauvignon and Semillon – atypical for the region, but one of my dearest wines.
The vinification philosophy employs inert techniques, including direct pressing and racking of free-run juice, to retain as much prime fruit and freshness as possible in the wines. All of the wines, part of Le Chifre, ferment and mature in concrete tanks at controlled temperatures between 16 °C and 17 °C.
Cantina follows traditional Istrian materials and looks, but you sense that nothing was left to chance in every step you make. Deni Mandić runs the restaurant, focusing on using seasonal ingredients and offering both traditional Istrian and classical dishes.
And he makes one of the best beef tartares we’ve had in many years! I’ve had a few occasions to enjoy it, but you never forget your first one. We were enjoying a glass of their Pjenušac (sparkling wine), and here came Deni with a serving tray full of goodies. Deni started with mayonnaise – egg yolk, olive oil, salt and pepper – at the table! In went the beef, followed by finely diced capers, cucumbers, garlic, shallots, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco sauce, Cognac, mustard, and anchovies. All ingredients are nicely mixed and placed onto an ice bowl to keep the tartare fresh. We got it served over three kinds of butter, and we could honestly ask for another round – you could taste the beef, and each of the ingredients complemented it nicely, adding an extra layer of flavour.
At our first visit, we indulged in freshly prepared fuži (local pasta) with truffles, followed by slow-cooked lamb that melted in the mouth.
The second occasion had to be tartare – and it was exactly as I remembered! This time, we also indulged in beef carpaccio and local cold cut delicacies for starters. For the second, a fantastic dish of homemade gnocchi with beef goulash and fuji with truffle, and as the main course: Fiorentina and slow-roasted lamb in the pot.
Additionally, those with a sweet tooth will find satisfaction here, as they offer a selection of pastries and a finger-licking tiramisu in the shape of a coffee bean.
You should taste the coffee! They cooperate with Hug & Punch Coffee Co. from Matulji, and they developed a special blend with aromas of Dingač.
The wines of Saints Hills combine two terroirs. You can savour some of the finest wines from Istria and Dalmatia in a single location, and they pair perfectly with the dishes served. At Saints Hills, almost all whites are produced in Istria – the only exception is Pohs, which is made from Pošip grapes coming from the island of Korčula in Dalmatia. All of the reds originate from Dalmatia and are almost entirely produced from Plavac Mali, except for Pape, which is made from Crljenak Kaštelanski (also known as Zinfandel).
Dingač is one of the most renowned expressions of the Plavac Mali grape. It defines a slope on Pelješac that was the first to obtain its own GI in 1961. At Saints Hills, two such wines are produced, but the Ernest Tolj Dingač 2019 – a limited edition wine, made only in the best vintages – scored a fascinating 99 points at Wine Enthusiast. It undoubtedly represents the pinnacle of this variety and a wine to savour in selected company. To note also that all of the proceeds from sales of this wine are dedicated to children in need.
Saints Hills Cantina is a gem located near the village of Višnjan, where you can savour excellent wines and succulent dishes. It is a must for all the foodies out there. You can either enjoy a wine tasting or indulge in the restaurant experience – and please, do order the beef tartare, you won’t regret it!
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