I’m a bit sentimental when writing about Kabaj’s wine. The more when writing about this one, so modestly named Noir …
The sentiment comes from all of the adventures we’ve been through at Kabaj’s estate. Few would know, but I used to help at their inn as a youngster. And is due to the lessons learned there, that I always look at and speak of with respect.
This sheer respect comes from the genuineness you see when staying there. There’s Jean, a strong figure, who openly speaks his mind, but always with focus and direction when speaking of wine (no wonder they’ve been included in the Top 100 wineries according to Wine & Spirits several times). And there’s Katja, the other supporting pillar of the estate, which people usually meet when staying and or dining at the estate … One simply has to see for himself, trust me!
The excitement this time is huge, as I’m trying Noir for the first time! As you might have guessed correctly we’re speaking of Pinot noir, the vintage 2015.
It comes from 17 years old vines, planted at an altitude of 100 meters above sea level in Brda’s Opoka. It underwent a 2-week maceration at controlled temperatures of 25 ° Celsius most. On indigenous, grapes own yeast, as the case with wines at Kabaj. It then matured in French barrique barrels for four years, undergoing full malolactic fermentation, and four more months of bottle-ageing before seeing the market.
This results in a wine of a thick, dark, ruby-red colour of a dense texture.
The bouquet is intense and surprisingly fruit-driven. Of ripe black currants, plums, cherries and dried flower petals. This is all followed by cocoa, nutmeg, liquorice, incense, forest undergrowth and eucalyptus.
Its taste is soft, the alcohol is well incorporated in the structure, with a ripe freshness, speaking form the background. Velvety tannins are pronounced and slowly rounding up. The taste feels balanced, intense, full-bodied with a majestically elegant persistence.
This wine will only improve across time and shows a decisive, direct character of this noble grape variety. It is a non-conformist Pinot noir, a bit on the rustic side. Undoubtedly a gem, that shows a different expression of this variety while fully reflecting the philosophy of the Kabaj house.