For all the hungry ones, looking to indulge in some great food & wine experience, there is a mandatory stop you should pin on your maps on the island of Pag – Boškinac.
Now, Boškinac is an experience. A retreat and a complete oasis, designed as a luxury hotel, far away from the fuss of crowded beaches and party-crazed Zrće. It is also one of the most prominent wineries, and you get not one, but two restaurants: the Michelin-starred restaurant, led by chef Matija Bregeš, and the Konoba Boškinac—a more casual, easy-going inn, but with no less finger-licking, exquisite dishes. Boškinac is a family-run business, owned by the Suljić family, who also happen to own two clubs in Zrće – the Kalypso club, and Tattva.
We’ve booked a late lunch at 4 PM, and could practically immerse in the whole experience. Now, I often say that there are no coincidences, and a dear colleague sommelier, whom I’ve met at the first Balkan sommelier championship – Vuk Stefanović greeted us. Among the catching up, he introduced us to the winery, the hotel, the restaurant and chef Matija Bergeš, who was just in the middle of the dinner prepping.
Finally, time to indulge in Boškinac wine and dine! The menu is fixed, combining seasonality and locality, with options for fish or meat, ensuring something for everyone, practically.
We started with beef tartare and Adriatic ceviche. A classic, tender, and exquisite tartar was paired nicely with Ocu – their amber wine, produced with seven indigenous grape varieties and a homage to Boris Suljić’s father, while the grand cuvée’s structure and freshness blended nicely with their version of ceviche – slightly spicy, refreshing yet allowing the fish to shine.
between courses, a delicious, fresher, and more direct expression of the Boškinac cuvée—a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
Continuing our experience with a delicious trio of Saint Jacques & sauce Hollandaise with croutons glazed in burnt butter – a sweet, savoury and crunchy delight. Next, a platter of fritto misto to engage our picky teenager. I had to try the Boškinčić cuvée between courses, a delicious, fresher, and more direct expression of the Boškinac cuvée — a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
For the main, we decided to stay at sea, choosing a deliciously cooked squid à la poêle with potatoes topped with just the right spicy kick and an excellent grilled octopus. I had to have a glass of the Boškinac cuvée – a Bordeaux blend based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – which was expressive, with dark forest fruit and black cherries, spiced up by clever oak usage and malolactic fermentation. Intense, lasting and full-bodied.
Having a sweet tooth, we ordered all three desserts. The Basque cheese cake was melting in the mouth, expressing the cream cheese in harmony with vanilla and a nice Maillard’s caramelisation. The pecan and apple tart was amazing, combining nicely the flavours of pecan with the freshness of the apple. And the peach and cream cake – ah, just thinking of it makes me salivate.
Boškinac easily tops the eno-gastronomical list of Pag, whether as a wine-tasting visit or as a calm retreat from the crowded bustle of Novalja or other Pag beaches. You will surely enjoy in an informal dining experience or a Michelin experience (something we have yet to experience and is on the to-do list for our next visit). Oh, Vuk has built a great selection of wines and even has a pairing that takes you through all the Balkan countries. Stay tuned, as we will return for sure!