What happens when four enthusiastic winemakers launch an initiative to refine what is defined and known as Collio Bianco DOC, thereby further expressing the terroir of Collio and the cultural roots of the wine? A union named Collio – Vino da uve autoctone (Collio – wine of indigenous grape varieties).
The invitation came from two dear wine friends – Stefano Cosma (publicist) and Kristian Keber (winemaker and son of Edi Keber) invited me to a presentation and tasting. It was a hot Wednesday afternoon, the location a historic hardware store now transformed into an expo and various events venue – Ferramenta Krainer in one of the oldest streets of Gorizia – Via Rastello.
A wine rooted in tradition
It’s been ages since Collio bianco or Colliano is known as a white blend based on Ribolla gialla, blended with other autochthonous grape varieties. However, after the First World War, more space was given to Malvasia Istriana and Tocai Friulano (also known as Sauvignonasse, Sauvignon Vert). These were the varieties approved in the Collio DOC of 1968:
- Ribolla gialla from 45 – 55 %
- Malvasia Istriana from 20 – 30 %
- Tocai Friulano from 15 – 25 %
We read of excellent white Collio wines being poured at La Botte d’oro in Trieste in an article published in La Baba in January 1865, and in the same publication in November 1867 that a “Goto de vin squisito del Collio” (a glass of exquisite wine from Collio) can be bought at the osteria for 40 soldi.
It was in 1888 that we read about a wine saloon in Trieste, where various winemakers presented their wines, including newly introduced foreign grape varieties. However, the Collio bianco remains – a Società Agraria was present, showcasing Vino Bianco Collio 1887 and other wines.
In 1922, King Vittorio Emanuele II and Queen Elena visited Gorizia, where they enjoyed a glass of “Vino bianco del Collio” accompanied by a plate of royal soup.
A price list from 1928 values a hectolitre of “Vino bianco del Collio” between 270 and 300 lire, which is among the most expensive wines of the era.
Further, in 1933, Ernesto Massi describes typical products from Gorizia, including the Colliano. The importance of Ribolla and Picolit is emphasised, but Tocai and Malvasia are mentioned too. It is specifically said that in the hills, the wines Colliano and Vipacco prevail, with the first based on Ribolla.
In 1963, we read about white wines, including Collio DOC, which is made from traditional grape varieties such as Ribolla gialla, Tocai Friulano, and Malvasia Istriana; other white varieties can be added in minimum quantities. Finally, in 1964, the Consorzio di tutela vini Collio was born in Gorizia and was recognised by law in 1968.
Changes, changes, changes…
The 1984 book by Robards on wine mentions a white wine called Collio as a blend of Ribolla, Malvasia, and Tocai grapes. In contrast, Wines & Spirits International’s 1988 description of a Collio Bianco lists a mix of Tocai, Malvasia, and Ribolla Gialla, indicating changes to the Disciplinare. In April 1990, a new change to the Disciplinare dictates the Collio Goriziano or Collio bianco as a blend of:
- Ribolla Gialla from 15 – 55 %
- Malvasia Istriana from 15 – 55%
- Tocai Friulano from 15 – 55%
with possible addition of a maximum of 20 % of other grape varieties present in vineyards and a limit of 10 % for Müller Thurgau and Gewurztraminer, either alone or combined.
5 years later, a further change allows producers to combine white grapes in different percentages, giving producers more creative freedom, and in 2017 we see the initiative for a Collio Gran Selezione with a composition of 40 – 70 % Tocai Friulano and up to 30 % of Ribolla gialla and Malvasia Istriana.
A union inspired by tradition
In 2018, a group of four producers decided to launch Collio DOC – Vino da uve autoctone, a project that looks back to tradition to emphasise the terroir of Collio further, highlighting only the three distinct varieties: Tocai Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, and Malvasia Istriana. The central part is reserved for Friulano, with the addition of Ribolla Gialla and Malvasia Istriana. The wine can be put on the market after a minimum of 18 months from harvest, and must not be produced through extended maceration; it may undergo oak ageing. It must be bottled in the distinctive Collio bottle, with ‘Collio’ written on the top. The inscription COLLIO – Vino da uve autoctone must be used on the top part of the front label and the producer on the lower part.
The initiative soon expanded to 6, then 8, and now we had the pleasure of meeting and tasting wines from 10 producers (a total of 11 producers are part of the project).
The goal of the initiative is to produce a wine of a territory with a clear inspiration to Brunello or Barolo. Think of it as a further refinement of what a typical Collio bianco DOC is, with even more stringent regulations.
A bright future
Is there a future for “Collio – Vino da uve autoctone”? In my opinion, the answer is straightforward: “Yes!” The initiative is growing, and more and more producers are joining the project. I have spoken to some of the producers from the region, and several prominent and internationally acclaimed producers are already planting vineyards and preparing their wines in accordance with the project’s principles.
From a consumer perspective at the international level, such an initiative only makes sense. The global consumer is seeking terroir-driven wines, based on autochthonous varieties, and these principles offer a competitive advantage and assurance.
Be sure to look for some of the Collio – Vino da uve autoctone wines on your next visit to Friuli. You should also look for some, as they are already present on the international market.
1 thought on “A union to boost the tradition and express the terroir of Collio”